Not many children have a restaurant named in their honor. But Natasha Bahrami did. Now, two years after the opening of Cafe Natasha, the seventh-grader is still pleased by the tribute and her parents, Hamish and Behshid Bahrami, have discovered that running a restaurant is a lot like raising a child. Both endeavors require patience, love and an enormous amount of time and energy. And both yield great satisfaction.

Neither of the Bahramis came to the United States with the intention of opening a restaurant. Hamish Bahrami was a nurse in Iran who came to New York in 1976 to visit a friend. Behshid came from Iran in 1970 to get a master's degree in geology. They met through mutual friends.

Behshid worked as a geologist until 1980, when the construction industry suffered major layoffs. In 1982, the couple decided to open a cafeteria serving American and Persian food. That restaurant, The Little Kitchen, is in the Paul Brown Building at 818 Olive Street downtown. It is open on weekdays for breakfast and lunch.

Cafe Natasha followed in 1993. The restaurant adds its Persian flair to the University City Loop, long established as an ethnic potpourri.

While her husband cooks, Hamish Bahrami greets and visits with every guest. She enjoys this role, explaining that their goal is complete satisfaction for each person who walks through the door.

Marinated and charbroiled lamb chops and shish kabobs are popular items on the menu. The seasonings are subtle, yet aromatic. The cuisine is reminiscent of Greek fare with less garlic. Beef and chicken shish kabobs are available as well, and lamb stew is often featured as a special.

Most entrees are served with plain or seasoned basmati rice with saffron. Salad, with a choice of four homemade dressings, can be substituted for the rice. The lemon-olive oil dressing is particularly tangy and light.

Vegetarians have a number of options. Entrees include the plain and eggplant kookoo platters both with a generous portion of a souffle-like pie (the kookoo), herbed rice, feta cheese and a cucumber-yogurt sauce. The eggplant version adds a warm, spicy melange of eggplant, garlic and garbanzo beans.

There are several unusual vegetarian appetizers: a tangy yogurt dip served with olive oil and warm pita bread; torshi, a relish of crunchy diced vegetables, pickled in spiced vinegar; and the Persian, a serving of feta cheese with warm pita bread and a plate of parsley, cilantro and green onion.

Hamish Bahrami gets the credit for creating a special assortment of desserts: cheesecake pie, baklava, fresh fruit pies and a peach almond custard pie that customers rave about. Persian tea served in small decorative glasses completes the ethnic experience. The wine list includes French, Australian, Chilean and California vintages, as well as two varieties of nonalcoholic wine.

Authentic Persian artwork surrounds patrons in this cozy, peaceful setting. Behshid Bahrami's uncle provided the colorful paintings that are reproduced throughout, down to the customized place mats. The atmosphere is relaxed and service is a priority.

COLD YOGURT SOUP

1 quart plain yogurt (the restaurant uses homemade)
Salt Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dry dill or 2 teaspoons fresh, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon crushed dried or fresh peppermint
1 large cucumber, peeled, cored and finely diced
1 bunch green onions, green parts only, or chives, finely diced
1/3 cup finely chopped walnuts
1/3 cup raisins or currants
Pita bread, optional
Bulgarian feta cheese, optional
Bagel chips or dry pita chips, optional

Whisk yogurt or beat with a fork until smooth.
Add 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper; taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.
Add dill, parsley and peppermint; stir well.
Stir in diced cucumber, green onions, walnuts and raisins. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Chill until cold. Serve with pita bread and feta cheese or crumble in bagel chips or pita chips.
Yield: About 6 cups.

Tester's notes: Cool, refreshing taste. Easily made.